 I've added a few Scale Spec items to the Sale category. Once these are sold, I won't be stocking them any longer so be sure to grab 'em while you can...
Check out all sale items HERE >  The next planned supplier order will be from Tonisport July 5, 2025
If there is anything you'd like me to add to the Tonisport order for you, please let me know and I'll start to build an order Here's a link to their site if you'd like to have a look: Just about everything they offer is available to us but please avoid the following:
 Alexander Hagberg recently posted on his Facebook page these great tips on how to correctly set up the steering on an Xray X4. Here's what he had to say:
I've been cutting my X4 steering link for a couple of years already and I'm surprised that Xray doesn't include a shorter link. I take material off of the inner end of the link prior to attaching the short ball cup and it works well     Here's some information on the new ORCA ESC PWM Start and PWM End settings. This applies to the OE1 Mark II and OE1 WLEB with the latest firmware update   This is my OGR mod setup and some notes for my X4 '23 as it finished the 2024 season. This is just a reminder for myself but you may find it helpful as well This car is lacking in corner exit forward grip and also pushes mid corner on power 2.5 rear springs add grip but times were a little slower Clean front and rear tires with sauce then sauce two heats prior to my race (eg. if I'm racing in heat 6, I sauce at the start of race 4). I gently wipe the sauce off one race prior to my heat so that it is mostly dry when I put my car down M17 Settings: Steering DR 96% Steering Curve -20% Throttle DR 100% Brake DR 78% Throttle Curve -10% WLE Settings: The ESC is turned down to help we drivability. Car is pretty slow but still has enough power to spin the tires so be sure to roll into the throttle
What next:
Continue to experiment with springs and droop Try laying dow the rear shocks Soft upper arms to improve front and rear traction and side bite?  There's a lot of great information available for free online. The problem is locating and sorting through it. A better, more efficient way to find setup information is with a book. Here are a couple of my favourite RC books that you may want to read: 1. Essential Touring Car RC Racer's Guide by Dave B Stevens. If you can only buy one book, this is the one that I recommend. I own and use this book regularly. It walks you through everything from the initial assembly of your car, to learning a new track to chassis setup and more. You can buy this book directly from the author as a paperback or as a digital download. I purchased the paperback version of the Touring Car book myself and love it. I also downloaded the Off-Road Guide when I raced off-road but find the download to be a less enjoyable reading experience 2. Hudy Setup Book. Included for free with a Hudy Setup Station and also as a free PDF download. You can download the PDF by clicking the file below: 
 Your new touring car is very sensitive to chassis setup changes. Things like ride height, droop and camber settings can dramatically change how your car performs. Learning how to check and adjust these settings will help your car function better, be easier for you to drive and make your racing more enjoyable
Here are some setup tools to consider Basic Setup Tools:
Ride Height Gauge: You're going to need to carefully measure your ride height in very precise increments. Choose a ride height gauge that shows increments of 0.1mm or 0.2mm. As an example, the front of my carpet touring car is generally measured at 5.0mm and the rear at 5.2mm. Here are a couple of popular ride height gauges:
Droop Gauge and Blocks: Droop is another important setting on your touring car that makes a very big impact on handling. To measure droop, you'll need 10mm droop blocks and a droop gauge. Here are some examples:
Camber Gauge: In a perfect world, you would use a setup station to measure camber, not a camber gauge. With that said, setup stations are expensive so you may wish to try a camber gauge to help keep things affordable at first. When it comes to camber gauges, you have several options to choose from including aluminum, digital and plastic. I suggest that you do not spend too much money on a camber gauge as you'll be better off in the end if you purchase a proper setup station. Some examples of camber gauges include:
Setup Stations: Certainly not a requirement but a very nice item to have is a setup station. A setup station will help you precisely adjust your camber, toe and caster settings. Many racers get by perfectly well without owning a setup station but, once you invest in one, you'll be happy you did. You'll have a few options to choose from including premium and lower price. Here are some examples:
Nice to Have Setup Tools:
Setup wheels are not a critical item to have at first but will help you check your chassis tweak. Additionally, if you chose to purchase a camber gauge rather than a setup station, setup wheels will also help you more accurately measure camber when combined with your camber gauge. Here are a couple of setup wheel options:
Tweak Stick is not an absolute necessity but will help you take your setup and car preparation to a higher level. Tweak is essentially a twist in the chassis that will have negative effects on your car's handling. A tweak stick can help you remove this tweak/twist. Many options are available and the stick you choose with depend on your chassis. If you need help in choosing a tweak stick, let me know How To: For more tips and information on how to set up your touring car, and how to use the tools recommended above, check out the recommend books and YouTube videos I link to later in this getting started series as well as the How To page Back to Getting Started Series >  On-road RC racing cars are very sensitive to minor adjustments. This means maintaining your car is quite important if you want it to perform at the highest level possible
Your instruction manual will likely provide a list of recommended tools. For most of these tools, you can get away with using whatever you have access to. There are a few that are worth invest in high quality however Three Most Important Tools: 1. 1.5mm Hex Driver. This will be used primarily for tightening your pinion gear screw. This screw is small and the last thing you want to do is strip the screw from using a low quality or warn out tool. Invest in a good quality 1.5mm hex driver and you won't regret it 2. 2.0mm Hex Driver. A 2mm hex driver is among the most used tool in EP touring cars. Although the quality of this tool isn't quite as important as a good quality 1.5mm for your pinion gear, you'll be using this tool a lot and a good tool will help avoid stripping and/or damaging the screws on your fancy new RC car 3. 7.0mm Nut Driver. This is for your wheel nuts. You're also going to use this one a lot. The quality of this tools isn't quite as important as your hex drivers but, if you're shopping for tools and it's within your budget, consider getting a quality 7mm nut driver to match your other tools Brands: There are many good RC tool brands to choose from including Hudy, MIP, Arrowmax, MR33, Protec and many more. You want to focus on quality and availability. My favourite brand is HUDY due to their high quality and the fact that HUDY makes virtually every tool we need so it's easy to have a complete set Avoid: Avoid the temptation to buy the no-name brand online tools. The "deal" may look too good to pass up but the frustration from stripping and damaging screws just isn't worth the hassle. Buy fewer tools and focus on quality Tool hack: If you already have a set of tools with removable tips, you may be able to upgrade the tip to a Hudy. This will be cheaper than buying a complete Hudy tool. You can upgrade the tip of the most important tools and keep the others as-is for now  If you followed my earlier advice of purchasing a 4wd EP touring car, and you're going to enter one of the two classes that I recommended (Scale Spec, Touring Stock) you can now purchase a body that is within the rules of your chosen class
Be sure to double check the rules before you make a purchase - things do change from time-to-time Scale Spec Bodies: One of the coolest things about Scale Spec class is the fact that the bodies are somewhat more realistic looking than the other touring car classes Brands: Some of the more popular brands of Scale Spec bodies (often also called USGT or GT) include Mon-Tech, Exotec, BittyDesign and ZooRacing What to Buy: There are many choices available. Choose any 190mm "GT" style body that looks good to you but avoid front wheel drive bodies like Honda Civics etc as they will not give you the downforce you will require. Try to also avoid anything with attached scale details like bumpers and mirrors as you will not be able to use those attachments in racing. Think sleek, lightweight with a lot of downforce LMP Bodies: There is a new line of LMP bodies by the brand Mon-Tech that look amazing but they are not fully approved for racing in Scale Spec class so be careful if you purchase one of these...depending on the track and the race director in charge, you may or may not be able to run one of these LMP bodies. Best to not risk it until we see whether or not these bodies will be permitted Touring Stock Bodies: When you move away from Scale Spec and into the touring classes (Touring Stock, Touring Mod) the bodies are less about looking realistic and more about performance. In these classes, the body you choose is more important as it will dramatically effect the performance characteristics of your car Buy This Body For Touring Stock: For touring stock, I recommend you don't get creative with your body choice. Simply buy an Xtreme Twister Speciale in either 0.5mm or 0.7mm thickness. The Speciale is the "go-to" body for most stock racers. If you choose this body, I'll be able to help you mount it correctly (very important) and you can follow the body mounting tips on the "HOW TO" page as well  McLeanRC is proud to be a sponsor of Ready to Run Raceway's 2024 Summer Challenge race event coming August 3-4
It's always free for spectators to watch so if you are curious to see what on-road RC racing in Richmond, BC is all about, feel free to drop by and watch some of the action Saturday to be qualifying - not actual racing but still fun to watch. We'll be racing against the clock to find our starting order for the races Sunday is the best day to watch if you want to see the most competitive racing action. You'll see electric powered RC cars driven by all levels of drivers ranging from beginners to experts along with thrilling nitro powered (gas) cars with loud engines, pit stops and fast speeds Feel free to come and say hello if you see me (look for my RC parts for sale and my all white coloured RC car) Learn more about Ready-to-Run Raceway on their Facebook Page: https://Facebook.com/VancouverRRR  When it comes time to choose your tires, you have a few options depending on the class or classes you decide to enter and whether or not you'll be racing outdoors at Ready to Run Raceway or indoors at Overgeared Racing
Here are the current tire rules for the two clubs - be sure to check the rules again before purchasing tires to make sure this is still current and correct: Ready to Run Raceway (Outdoor):
Overgeared Racing (Indoor):
Tire Sauce / Additive: In addition to purchasing tires, you're going to need some tire additive or "sauce". We use tire additive to soften the tire and dramatically improve the grip of the tire. Ready to Run Raceway (Outdoor):
Overgeared Racing (Indoor):
Tire Prep: Tires are among the most important items on your car. Preparing your tires correctly will make a big difference in the performance of your car. Feel free to ask me for some pointers on tire prep or you can check out the "HOW TO" page for a few articles and videos I've gathered from the internet Back to Getting Started Series >  If you followed my earlier advice and purchased a 4wd touring car and plan to enter either Scale Spec or Touring Stock class, your battery choice will be pretty easy
You'll want to find a quality, 2s, hard case, LiPo battery Brands: I recommend you stay away from the no-name Amazon specials. Stick to a well known brand like ORCA, Reedy, Gens Ace etc. Not only could a cheap battery affect the performance of your car, it is also a safety issue. The last thing you want is some cheap, puffed up battery causing a fire at the track or in your house mAh, C-Rating, LiHV: As a newcomer to racing, don't worry too much about the mAh or C-rating or whether or not the battery is LiHV or LiPo. All of these things matter but, I'll keep things simple for you... Just Buy This: ORCA 6390mAh 2s LiPO. This is the most popular battery used at our local tracks and is perfectly sized for your touring car. Not only physically but also in capacity and weight Why ORCA: ORCA batteries are very high quality, perform exceptionally well, are durable and long lasting. ORCA also goes above and beyond to support our local clubs with prizes, gifts and other support so returning that favour to ORCA by purchasing their products will help continue this into the future New vs Used Used batteries come up for sale fairly regularly. Just be sure to inspect the physical condition of the battery and avoid anything that looks to be puffy/swollen or has a cracked case - this is for the safety of your RC car, the racing facility and your home. If possible, you can check the health of the battery by running a test cycle on a quality charger. Look for a low IR (internal resistance) and cells that have similar IR and capacity to one another. If the two cells have a large variance in either voltage or IR you may want to continue looking for a different one I occasionally have used batteries for sale so feel free to ask me or, you can also try posting a wanted ad on our local Facebook buy and sell page: Back to Getting Started Series >  Choosing a battery charger can be as simple or as complicated as you'd like it to be. Before you buy a charger, the question you may want to ask yourself is how good of a racer do you want to be
If you're happy to just go out and race with your buddies and have fun, then pretty much any charger capable of charging a 2s LiPo battery will be adequate. If, on the other hand, you have ambitions of being one of the more competitive racers and are willing to do whatever it takes to get the very best out of your car and equipment, you may want to invest in a premium charger (and possibly discharger) Recommended Chargers: The charger market is changing rapidly with new brands and chargers coming out very often so I'm not going to make any specific charger recommendations. Your best bet is to visit the track and see what other racers are using Used Equipment: One way to save some money on a charger is to consider buying a good used one. For the most part, chargers don't wear out so if you can find one that has been taken care of, it will probably be okay to buy used. Try posting a "wanted" ad on one of our local Facebook buy and sell pages: Back to Getting Started Series >  When it comes to choosing your first ESC, you have many options. I'll try to narrow down your choices...
What Brand: Just like everything else, I'm going to suggest you stick with what is the most popular at our local tracks...ORCA Why ORCA: ORCA ESCs are very high quality and are reasonably priced. ORCA also goes above and beyond to support our local clubs with prizes, gifts and other support so returning that favour to ORCA by purchasing their products will help continue this into the future. Additionally, virtually all of the fast drivers at our tracks run ORCA so you'll be able to get support from several people to ensure your ESC is set up correctly Which ORCA ESC Model: Depending on your budget, you have a few different choices. Here they are, listed from lowest price to highest
New vs Used Used ESCs don't come up very often but people do upgrade from time-to-time so it's worth considering a good used one. I highly recommend you stay away from all brands other than ORCA and possibly HobbyWing. With the new ORCA ESCs being so affordable, it's not worth the trouble for you to mess around with a used ESC that nobody else runs. You'll be better off with a brand new Totem rather than some old, used ESC from another brand for a similar price To find a used ESC, check out our local Facebook buy and sell pages: Back to Getting Started Series >  A transponder is a little electrical device that we place in our cars that tracks our lap times. Every time we cross the start/finish line, it sends a signal to the computer that shows how fast we completed the lap and our position on track vs our competitors
A transponder is mandatory and you'll have to purchase your own as currently, our two local on-road clubs do not offer loaner/rental transponders Transponder Options: 1. MyLaps RC4 3-Wire (Red) - Long wire 2. MyLaps RC4 Pro (Black) - Short wire A third option called a "Hybrid" is available on the market but you don't need to pay the extra money for that one The red and black RC4 transponders both function exactly the same way. The red one has a longer wire that may be useful in some applications but I find the black one to be the better choice for on-road cars as we don't need the long wire Used Transponders: Used transponders are available from time-to-time. They're generally durable but be sure take a close look at the wiring and the receiver plug to ensure they are in good condition before you buy a used one. I occasionally see used transponders being sold by off-road racers that are in pretty rough condition but I have also seen some (and sold some) like new used transponders. To find a used transponder, check out our local Facebook buy and sell pages:: Back to Getting Started Series >  With so many cool looking cars to choose from, it can be a little bit confusing at first. Should you choose electric or nitro power? Front wheel drive or four wheel drive? New or used?
What about the racing class? Should you enter Spec Tamiya, Scale Spec, Touring Stock or Touring Mod? What about the brand? Associated, Awesomatix, Axon, Mugen, RC Maker, Schumacher, Tamiya, Xray, Xpress, Yokomo or something else? They're all awesome but some are smarter choices than others when you are getting started. Here are my thoughts... Before You Buy Anything: Before you buy a car, I highly suggest you drop by one of the local tracks to watch some of the racing action and ask questions You should also follow the tracks/clubs that interest you on Facebook to see their schedules, class rules etc. I've linked to the various tracks and their respective websites/Facebook pages here:
What Type of Car to Buy: In my opinion, the only type of car you should consider is a 1/10 scale, 4-wheel drive, electric touring car. Touring cars are by far the most common cars raced locally. If you purchase one of these, you're guaranteed to have a large number of friends to compete against all year long What Class to Enter: Much like choosing a popular car design, you'll also want to stick to the most popular racing classes. At our local tracks, these are Scale Spec and Touring Stock. Both are very popular at Ready to Run Raceway in the summer and Overgeared Racing in the winter Scale Spec is a 1/10 scale, electric touring car class that is beginner friendly but is also highly competitive at the upper levels. If you have limited experience, start with the Scale Spec class. As your skills progress, you'll move up the ranks in Scale Spec and you will enjoy some fierce competition and close racing Touring Stock is another 1/10 scale, electric touring car class. It's not quite as beginner friendly as Scale Spec but if you have a little bit of experience, you should be okay to enter this class as well. I started racing in Touring Stock class simply because I didn't know any better...I thought stock class was the slowest class. Stock can be very competitive at the higher levels. If you are willing to spend a little extra time and money on your equipment to fight it out over a 10th of second per lap, Touring Stock may be the class for you Honourable Mention: Spec Tamiya is a fun and popular racing class at Overgeared Racing in the winter. This isn't a serious racing class and it is very beginner friendly. My only concerns with this class is that it is not run in the summer time and the cost of getting one of these "cheap" cars to run competitively is nearly the same as a race grade EP Touring car. In most circumstances, I recommend Scale Spec over Spec Tamiya What Brand(s) to Consider: There are a lot of different RC touring car brands to consider. When choosing a brand of vehicle, keep the following in mind:
Recommended Brand: Xray. Admittedly, I'm an Xray fan boy so I may be accused of being biased. The reason I recommend Xray brand cars is pretty straight forward though: 1. They are durable 2. They handle/drive very well 3. They are common so you can get help/parts from friends Xray kits and parts are expensive but, the fact that they are durable helps to mitigate this added expense because you won't need to buy parts as often If searching for a used Xray kit, try to find yourself one of these:
Honourable Mentions:
Aluminum vs Carbon Fibre Chassis: Most touring car kits are available with your choice of aluminum chassis or carbon fibre chassis for roughly the same price. We generally run an aluminum chassis on carpet and a carbon fibre chassis on asphalt. If you purchase a kit with an aluminum chassis, it will work perfectly for the winter/carpet season. You can then purchase a spare carbon fibre chassis plate to convert your car to an asphalt setup. You do not need to purchase an entire new kit for the two seasons What to Avoid: All Nitro Models. Nitro racing takes place in the summer time only. There is no nitro racing in the winter so if you purchase a nitro car, your racing season will be very short. If you purchase an electric car, you can race all year long. Additionally, you'll have a lot to learn as a newcomer to racing, adding the challenge of a nitro car is not a good idea. Lastly, you will need the approval of the race director before you can run your nitro car in a race class so if you don't already have adequate skills...you may not be permitted to use it RTR Cars like Kyosho Fazer, Team Associated Apex, HPI Flux etc. There isn't anything inherently wrong with these kits but we don't have a suitable racing class for them at our local tracks. If you already own one of these kits and would like to give racing a try, by all means, bring it out to the track and have some fun but, if you are looking to purchase something, do not buy one of these Online Only Brands like 3Racing. Although I do see these at the track from time-to-time, the low quality and difficult parts availability will detract from your enjoyment. The hassle isn't worth the small amount of money you may or may not save if you purchase one of these New vs Used: If purchasing a brand new kit isn't within your budget, you may wish to consider a well maintained, used kit. Preferably from a local racer so that you can look at the car before buying it (or ask a more experienced friend for advice). Be weary of anything that's too old, rare or poorly maintained. You don't want anything that will be too difficult to get parts for or in need of too many repairs Try browsing our local Buy and Sell Facebook Page or even post a "wanted" ad to see what you can find Back to Getting Started Series >  Another important part of your touring car electronics package is your steering servo. You're going to need a decent quality, low profile servo. I say decent quality as you'll need it to be relatively fast and responsive in order for you to have proper control over your car
You also want to ensure you are running a brand that is popular at your track to ensure you can get help from your fellow racers with setting up your servo and also for parts support should you ever need it (gear sets, replacement case etc) Here are my top picks for touring car steering servos as well as some honourable mentions: Top Suggestions Premium: Sanwa PGS LH2 Middle: PowerHD S15 Entry Level: PowerHD R12s Why I Suggest These Servos: The Sanwa PGS LH2 is among the most popular high-end servos used in electric touring cars. It comes at a premium price but is ultra fast, fully programmable, durable and reliable. This servo is also fully compatible with the Sanwa transmitters that I recommend The PowerHD servos are also a great servo at an affordable price. To me, PowerHD is to servos as FlySky is to transmitters...these used to be cheap junk but they now have some very high quality products. The S15 features a durable aluminum case, metal gears, a fast transit speed and more than enough torque for a touring car. The R12s has similar speed to the S15 but features a plastic case and slightly lower torque to help keep the cost down Used Servos: You can save some money by purchasing a used servo. Just be careful as servos do wear out. If you buy used, try to determine how old the servo is and what it was used for. A servo used in an off-road vehicle, crawler or basher may have more wear-and-tear than one used strickly for electric on-road so should be priced accordingly. To find a used servo, try one of our local Facebook buy and sell pages: Back to Getting Started Series >  Now that you have decided where you'll be racing and what class you'd like to enter, it's time to purchase an appropriate motor for your car.
Motor rules change from time-to-time so be sure to carefully read the most current rules (or ask on Facebook) to ensure you purchase the correct motor Motor Turn, Fixed Timing vs Adjustable Timing: At the time of my writing this, here are the current rules for motor turn and timing. Be sure to confirm before you buy a motor Overgeared Racing (Indoor/Winter): Scale Spec - Fixed Timing 21.5t (Roar approved) Touring Stock - Open 21.5t (Roar approved) Ready to Run Raceway (Outdoor/Summer): Scale Spec - Open 21.5t (Roar approved) Touring Stock - Open 17.5t (Roar approved) What Brand: There are several high quality motor brands on the market these days and as a beginner, choosing any of the well known brands should work for you. I will however highly suggest you choose a brand that is well supported at your local track so that you can get assistance from other racers on setting up the motor correctly. Some popular brands locally include ORCA, Reedy, Hobbywing and Gravity. Many others are also available and as a beginner, they will likely work well enough for you For a fixed timing motor, I suggest this Gravity RC 21.5T Fixed Timing motor. Overgeared Racing currently allows all brands of fixed timing motors but NORA mandates the Gravity RC motor. If you plan to ever race at NORA, you'll want to ensure you have the Gravity and not another brand. Be sure to double check the rules to ensure this is still accurate For an open motor class, choose whatever brand you like but, if you go with an ORCA, you'll have the support of several fast drivers to help set up your motor for optimum performance New vs Used: New motors can be pricey so you may wish to consider buying a good, used motor initially A new, high-end motor will likely cost between $150 - $250 A good, used motor will be somewhere between $50 - $150 Most of the fast racers will replace their motors every season or two so you should be able to find a nice, used motor that will have more than enough performance to get you started To find a used motor, check out our our local Facebook buy and sell page:  The transmitter (radio control) you choose is very important and will effect your ability to control your car
My first "racing" radio was a $75 FlySky GT2B. I suggest you avoid the temptation to buy a very cheap radio like this. The latency/delay between the movements you make on these cheap transmitters vs the time it takes the car to react will make it very difficult for you to drive well. Trust me...and don't make the same mistake I made Here are my top suggestions and some honourable mentions... Top Suggestion - Sanwa: Premium: Sanwa M17 / M17S Middle: Sanwa MT-5 Entry Level: Sanwa MT-R Why Sanwa brand? Sanwa is used by the vast majority of professional RC racers and for good reason. The performance of these radios is among the best available and the price for the entry level and mid grade radios is on par with other "lesser" brands. Sanwa is also well supported at our local clubs by all levels of drivers so you'll be able to get setup help if needed Honourable Mention - FlySky: Premium: FlySky Noble Pro Middle: FlySky Noble Entry Level: Not recommended FlySky has come a long way in their quality and feature set. Some pro-level racers are now using the FlySky Noble Pro and several of the local racers are running the Noble radios Honourable Mention - Futaba: Premium: Futaba 10PX Middle: Futaba 4PM Entry Level: Futaba 3PV Futaba is another great brand of radio to consider and is relatively easy to obtain. Futaba is not as common as Sanwa or even FlySky locally but a few local racers run Futaba radios so you should be able to get some help if needed Used Equipment: If buying a brand new radio is not within your budget, you may wish to consider a good, used one. Have a look on our local Facebook buy and sell pages:  5-time world champion Marc Rheinard and his brand MR33 have partnered with 1up Racing to bring us a new line of bearing oil, CV Joint Oil, O-Ring grease and more
 Cory Craig was kind enough to post this X4 Caster Cheat Sheet on the T4 / X4 Facebook Group and I thought it could be handy to have it here as well
More caster will increase the camber to a greater degree as the steering lock is increased, which will provide more high speed and sweeper steering, but less off-power, low-speed steering. Less caster will increase the camber to a lesser degree as the steering lock is increased, which will provide more low-speed steering, but less high-speed sweeper steering. This will make the car more aggressive turning into corners  Introducing RCMaker's latest evolution. Blacked out, innovative and convenient! Weighted Tweak Wheel Set Pro for Touring Cars!
Featuring a more stylish updated design that also increases the usability, durability and accuracy of the tweak wheels!
 Mon-Tech Racing is proud to present the new JULIA bodyshell for Touring Car classes!
Extensive track testing has shown the JULIA to be a high-performance bodyshell solution. It excels in straight-line speed, a major advantage for STOCK classes. Additionally, the JULIA boasts excellent stability and cornering, meeting the demands of modern bodyshell design. Two versions are available: “Standard”, weighing approximately 80 grams, and “La Leggera” version, coming in at a lightweight of approximately 60 grams. The JULIA is printed using high-quality polycarbonate and includes window masks, headlight decals, and all the screws and washers needed to secure the rear wing.  Just a reminder that I have access to the full range of Sweep Racing RC tires. From the new D-Spec touring tires, to F1, to Mini and even some of the bashing and off-road tires - if there's anything you need from Sweep Racing, please let me know
 Manu Wagner posted these pictures of his ORCA equipped Xray X4 '24 and it looks so good, I had to share     |
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